![]() ![]() ![]() the oil never gets a chance to reach operating temperture and cannot boil off the moisture in the crankcase. that is actually a long period of time and with most people using the machine for maybe 10 minutes and shutting off. and your machine will operate fine for many years.recommended oil change intervals is 100 hours, if you don't have a hour meter on the machine. Look at it carefullly to insure you change all of the filters. there is also a filter for that.change it ! there is also a filter for the hydraulics, depending on your model it may have just a high pressure filter.but alot of them have a suction line filter. Now the previous posts are correct, the transmission is nothing but 10w hydraulic oil, wheather you choose atf or the aw46 is of no consequence except you can find the red dye easier with the atf. now you are probably asking yourself what is the difference, both oils have standard characteristics of being able to hold contaminents in suspension until removed by the filter (Baldwin has a 1 micron rating as opposed to other manufacturers with a 10 / 15 micron rating ) Now the Rotella has a higher detergent package that in some cases will break loose years of built up sludge and cause the engine to smoke becasue it freed up the sludge, Since this is unknown to me I would opt for the Pennzoil.good oil, easily available, and if you cannot find that you can buy Quaker State, ( which in the past was garbage, but was acquired by Pennziol and the additive package has been improved ) Stay away from non-detergent oils for the engine. Now if everything is alright in the motor.USE a good oil, my preference with an unknown would be Pennzoil 10w30, if I knew it was in good shape inside I would use 15w40 Rotella from Shell. here is why we are guessing.what shape is the motor in? alot of those little continentals are rapping and that is why it is sold, parts are availiable but you will have to rob the paper girl to pay for them. I warned the guy to have it looked at, but he stuck his head in the sand.ignorance was not blissful.ĭump out the engine oil and filter, buy a Baldwin brand filter ( interchange it ), and with out you telling anyone on here. anyway a couple of the diodes had blown, and it was actually trying to go into forward and reverse at the same time. The purpose of that is that it provides a neutral safety switch, so the engine will not start in gear. They have a pretty complicated wiring harness, it has I think about six diodes that are wrapped into the loom. That was the reason the one I worked on had died. If you have the electric shift, you may have trouble with that at some point. They were not cheap, in fact nothing was. At that time Clark had all of the manuals. I don't remember the model that I worked on, but it was in the 3000 pound lift range. If it's not red then it would be AW 46 hydraulic oil. Like Stuart says, if it's a red, it's transmission fluid. It's been so long I'm not really sure I remember, but I think it took regular hydraulic oil. Many years ago I got the distinct privilege of rebuilding the transmission in one of those things.
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